For foodaholics travelling around Cambodia, the Roluos Markets at Tonle Sap in Siem Reap are a fascinating adventure into the foodie world of the locals, but do be aware of its reputation for scamming tourists, and only go on a reputable, organized tour, even if, like me, you hate playing with other tourists!
The Tonle Sap lake area is home to the Black fish, also known as "treyras". This fish has the most striking black skin with bright orange flesh. It’s a daily staple of this poor village's diet. Definitely not a fish that would entice me to eat it in any way, especially after seeing bucket after bucket overflowing with the bloody, garish innards and heads. Large glistening scales smother the ground, the feet and hands of the women busily scaling them, before deftly filleting with sharply honed knives on round wooden chopping boards.
Black fish is only one of the black fish species; others include catfish "trey pra" and "trey ondeng", on offer in this market alongside vegies and handcrafted items predominantly laid out on mats on the brilliant crimson earth. There were also so many small white fish that, to me, belonged in an aquarium. Women were chopping off heads, smashing, and pulping the bodies of these tiny morsels. They were making the stinky fish paste known as ‘prahok’, a key ingredient in Khmer and Cambodian cooking. Prahok is often made from freshly ground mud carp, which is crushed and packed into pots to ferment for months, giving it a sharp, strong umami flavor used in soups, salads, and dips.
The open-air market was a maze of red-packed earthen roadways, and I use the term roadways very loosely. A patchwork quilt of tin roofs in blues, oranges, and greens sat atop wooden buildings. Both sides of the street were lined with rustic wooden stalls of various shapes and sizes, all overladen with fresh produce. Vendors sat on the ground surrounded by their goods for sale. The road narrowed and eventually disappeared into a shuffling, crowded walkway as the densely packed stalls encroached. It’s a vibrant and bustling hub that captures the essence of local life and commerce while playing a crucial role in the daily lives of residents and visitors alike. It serves as a primary marketplace where villagers and traders gather to buy and sell a wide variety of goods, including fresh fish, fruits, vegetables, traditional handicrafts, and clothing. The market’s strategic location near the lake makes it an ideal spot for fishermen to sell their catch directly to consumers, ensuring fresh seafood is always available.
It was hectic, busy, and industrious, as the chorus of Cambodian voices and laughter swelled in pitch to the constant sounds of chopping, grinding, and slicing. My nostrils were assailed by the scent of wafting smells of cooking, fresh herbs, spices, fish and meat, blood and guts, and flies and more flies. Grinning pigs' heads were grotesquely sitting on a bench face up, coconuts were being shaved from the husk, and there were mounds of fish guts, and a constant buzzing of flies.
Besides being a commercial center, Roluos Markets also functions as a social space where locals exchange news, share stories, and strengthen community bonds. It was a mass of smiling brown faces, both young and old. Mothers were with their young children, sometimes bathing or feeding them. It was almost what I would call a "market kindergarten", as small faces peered up at me, begging for their photograph to be taken as they trotted behind me wherever I went. The women wore brightly colored scarves or bonnets as they went about their business.
The whole scene was one of colorful domesticity in a daily confusion that their lives revolved around.
Visitors to the market can enjoy a glimpse into Cambodia’s rich cultural heritage through its diverse offerings and friendly interactions. The market is also a hub for traditional Cambodian foods, such as fish amok, Khmer noodles, and tropical fruits, making it a perfect place for culinary enthusiasts eager to taste local flavors. In addition to the food and craft stalls, vendors sell everyday essentials, making it a one-stop shop for the community.
Over the years, Roluos Markets has adapted to modern needs while maintaining its traditional old-world charm. Tourism has also contributed to the market’s popularity, as travelers seek authentic experiences beyond the typical tourist hot spots. With the tourists come the scammers, as in many countries where poverty is prevalent. The markets have become increasingly notorious for scams that target international visitors. Understanding the common scams and how to avoid them is crucial for anyone visiting. From deceptive pricing (negotiate the price clearly before making a payment and always carry small denominations of cash) to the sale of counterfeit goods, such as fake branded watches, handbags, and electronics. Pickpocketing and theft, of course, are on the agenda, especially in crowded areas. Another less obvious scam involves fake charity or donation requests. Some vendors or street performers may approach tourists with pleas for donations, claiming the money will go to an orphanage or a school charitable cause. Often, these funds do not reach any legitimate charity, and the scammers simply pocket the money. Lastly, there are scams related to transportation and taxi services. Some unauthorized drivers may overcharge tourists or take longer routes to increase the fare. It is recommended to agree on a price before starting a journey or to use trusted ride-hailing services.
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Gail Palethorpe, a self proclaimed Australian gypsy, is a freelance writer, photographer and eternal traveller. Check out her website Gail Palethorpe Photography and her Shutterstock profile.
