While in Portugal, if you want to bitch about something that has happened (slack or no service, overcharging, bad food in a restaurant, unmetered taxis, or whatever offends your sensibilities, especially if you haven’t had your early morning espresso), you can make an official complaint in Portugal's complaints book, known as the ‘Livro de Reclamações’.
This legendary complaints book is a pseudo-national treasure that many tourists don't know about. Those in the know use it as a tool for polite protest, with plenty of hints of sarcasm and humor. Imagine a thick book, sitting quietly in cafes, hotels, and government offices, waiting for the next angry customer to unleash their grievances—yet, in true Portuguese fashion, it’s less a place for serious moaning and more a cultural comedy show. Portuguese businesses cannot refuse access to the book, and if they do, consumers have the legal right to call the local police to report the establishment.
It’s a vital element of consumer protection and service accountability in the country to ensure transparency and enable regulators and authorities to monitor service quality and address consumer issues effectively. Every business in Portugal must provide this official red book when a client or customer requests it.
The physical book is a red-covered A4-size booklet in which complaints are written in triplicate. The business must send copies of the complaint to the relevant industry regulator: ASAE (Autoridade de Segurança Alimentar e Económica—food and accommodation), ANACOM (Autoridade Nacional de Comunicações—internet, telecommunications and postal), ANAC (Autoridade Nacional da Aviação Civil—airlines, airports and flights), and AMT (Autoridade da Mobilidade e dos Transportes—trains, buses, taxis, and ride-sharing services). For money dramas, send the complaint to Banco de Portugal for banks, credit institutions, and financial services. A digital portal is also available: Livro de Reclamações Eletrónico.
In-the-know travelers in Portugal often use the Livro de Reclamações for humorous, sometimes amusing grievances that reflect their cultural observations and travel experiences. These complaints, while serious, often reveal a light-hearted side of tourism, highlighting the quirks of Portuguese service and hospitality. Many complain about the language barrier, joking that they ordered a ‘bica’ (Portuguese espresso) and received something completely different. Food-related complaints are also popular, with tourists claiming they ordered ‘francesinha,’ expecting a simple sandwich, only to find a towering, elaborate dish that looked more like a culinary challenge than a meal. These complaints sometimes include humorous descriptions of their culinary adventures, like trying to eat ‘pastéis de nata’ (custard tarts) without getting custard on their clothes. Accommodation complaints are also a source of comedy, with quirky complaints about tiny hotel rooms, old buildings with creaky floors, or the inconsistent quality of service. For example, some complain that the hotel’s “sea view” was more of a “parking lot view,” or that the shower was so small they could barely turn around. There are also reports of the notorious ‘Portuguese time,’ where delays and relaxed schedules mean waiting hours, or the charming way locals say ‘soon’ while actually meaning ‘maybe tomorrow.’ Transport complaints include amusing anecdotes about the reliability of public transportation, such as buses and trains that arrive ‘whenever’ or the humorous confusion of tourists trying to navigate the often-complicated tram and metro systems. Some people joke about trying to rent a scooter or car and the unexpected challenges, like figuring out a manual transmission or the local driving style, which can be both frustrating and funny.
Many countries around the world have implemented systems like Portugal's complaints book, which allows citizens and visitors to formally express grievances or feedback about public services, government agencies, or private businesses. In the United Kingdom, for example, the ‘Complaints Procedure’ is integrated into most public sector organizations, including local councils, healthcare providers, and the police, allowing individuals to submit formal complaints that are then reviewed and addressed. Similarly, in the United States, many government agencies and private companies have established complaint portals and ombudsman offices to handle grievances. In Australia, the Commonwealth and state governments provide mechanisms like the Commonwealth Ombudsman and various state-based complaint agencies. France has a tradition of formal complaint procedures through the ‘Mémoire de la Citoyenneté’ and other channels. And Germany similarly uses public-administration complaint systems, allowing people to escalate issues through administrative courts or dedicated complaint offices within government agencies.
Frankly, the complaints lodged in Portugal’s Livro de Reclamações often serve as a humorous mirror to the everyday realities of travel in the country. They reflect travelers' good-natured spirit and the charming idiosyncrasies of Portuguese culture. While they are grievances at heart, they are often shared with a smile and become part of the memorable stories that travelers take home, adding to the rich tapestry of Portugal’s welcoming yet wonderfully unpredictable travel experience.
Gail Palethorpe, a self proclaimed Australian gypsy, is a freelance writer, photographer and eternal traveller. Check out her website Gail Palethorpe Photography and her Shutterstock profile.
