Winemaking has been happening for the last five centuries in the Valle de Guadalupe on the Baja Peninsula of Mexico, but prior to this, its native inhabitants would happily ferment grapes and honey together to produce their own vino-version. A quirky fact; 500 years ago, at the order of Spanish Conquistador Hernán Cortés, the Spaniards living on the peninsula had to plant 10 vines for each enslaved person they owned. Jesuits and Russian immigrants arrived on the peninsula in the 17th century and began planting grapes for wine, which was exported. It wasn't until the 19th century that Ensenada became a wine hub, and the Valle de Guadalupe wine region was born. One of the oldest wineries in North America is Bodegas de Santo Tomás founded where the Dominican Misión de Santo Tomás de Aquino once stood with vines dating back to the 1790s.
Wineries on the peninsula are a glorious mix of architectural wonders, with some having amazing restaurants and others stunning accommodations with incredible panoramic views in case you don't wish to leave the playground of vintners. The best wineries are hidden down unassuming desert roads that may appear to lead to nowhere. The vibe is laid-back desert indulgence where there's never a lack of a sip of wine to satisfy your thirst—mouthfuls of Baja California reds (merlot, syrah, cabernet sauvignon) and whites (chardonnay, Chenin blanc, sauvignon blanc), plus a sprinkling of sparkling wines and rose. Exploring the area of vineyards is best if you self-drive, which gives you the freedom to create your own itinerary. If you aren't comfortable driving or if it limits your wine-tasting experience, hire a private driver or take an organized wine tour from Ensenada or one of the few hotels in Guadalupe.
Below are a mere few of the 150 wineries in the Valle de Guadalupe wine region available for tastings:
Decantos
Often regarded as a 'visionary's dream,' Decantos is a tour into what was believed to be the impossible. Upon arrival, your jaw will drop as you are confronted with a massive complex of stone and metal with a life-size seated sculpture of the 'Thinking Man.' The magnificent wood and glass bar was constructed from the trunk of a 200-year-old oak tree. When you peer over the outdoor balcony railing, you will definitely have a sense of vertigo at the plummeting vision down into the earth. Totally unique, the founder, Alonso, created his winery based on gravity to move the wine, eliminating all mechanical pumps in the process from fermentation to the final bottling.
Vena Cava
Another architectural masterpiece in the desert landscape of Valle de Guadalupe designed by renowned Alejandro D’acosta, who is known for re-purposing reclaimed materials, Vena Cava has a roof created from upside-down recycled boats. The owner, Phil Gregory, is a new hip vintner following a different winemaking path in that this winery has the grapes dancing around a radial pattern, minimizing the distance between the various facets of winemaking mechanisms, all the while ensuring that the taste and self-sustainability of the land is in sync.
Monte Xanic
Hidden behind a grand gate, Monte Xanic is a picturesque famous vineyard with an artificial lake and a gorgeous outdoor patio where the Pacific breeze brings cooling whispers to those hardy souls sipping delectable wines outdoors. The panoramic vision is one of endless vines creeping over the landscape. Bookings are essential here, and a special wine tasting can be had on the edge of the lake, where a wooden dock with canoes juts out into the dam. Known for its famous wine-tasting packages when a sumptuous cheese platter is served to guests.
El Cielo
A winery where you don't have to leave, as there is luxurious accommodation, El Cielo is a dreamer's idea of the perfect vineyard—fine dining with an elegant boutique hotel perched on a lake for an ideal weekend escape. Or for the day trippers waiting for a tasting appointment, there's a choice of gourmand adventures in either Latitude 32 (steakhouse and Baja-Yucatan fusion fare) with wines from everywhere in the valley, or the casual little Bistro where cheese and cold meats can be picked at leisurely. Weekends are hectic and bookings must be made months in advance for the opportunity to sleep amidst the vines.
Other wineries of note include Finca La Carrodilla for its jaw-dropping views (as well as the wine), Don Thomas, where you can also sleep amidst the grape vines in luxurious cabanas, and Hilo Negro, apparently the best place to swill back some red grapes amidst a winery set in ancient boulder fields where buildings of glass, steel and concrete slap you in-the-face with their dominant presence on the landscape. Viñedos de la Reina's vineyard is only steps from Damiana's restaurant—a Michellin-star affair—farm-to-table produce heavily features on its seasonal menu.
Gail Palethorpe, a self proclaimed Australian gypsy, is a freelance writer, photographer and eternal traveller. Check out her website Gail Palethorpe Photography and her Shutterstock profile.
