An enchanting village nestled in the rolling hills of southern France, Montolieu is where the air is filled with the scent of old paper and lavender. Known as the 'Village of Books', it's as if you have magically disappeared between the pages of a whimsical storybook.
Its streets are dotted with independent bookstores where mountains of books hide behind welcoming doors. Each one is a treasure chest of vintage finds, rare editions, and beautifully curated collections. If you browse the shelves, you might find a first edition of a French classic or a beautifully illustrated children's book. And don't miss La Librairie de Montolieu. In this cozy haven, the owner's passion for literature shines through in every corner.
Sitting in the heart of the Occitanie region, the village is a treasure trove of history, art, and stories waiting to be discovered. The streets overflow with arty locals from everywhere on the planet who have made this charming place home to their art galleries and quirky stores of anything book related. You'll need to bring cash with you on this excursion, as there are no ATMs available in Montolieu.
This small, charming town, where the population is a mere 800 or so inhabitants drawn to the village's unique literary and artistic vibes, sits dramatically on a rugged peninsula, lording it over ancient river valleys and deep ravines created by the constant flow of the Dure and Alzeau Rivers flowing in tandem on either side. The power of this water flow enabled six paper mills to be dotted on the banks of the Dure River. The last one standing in the entire Occitanie region and still in use is in the tiny town (with only 300 people) of Brousses-et-Villaret, a 15-minute drive away.
Before Montolieu became a bibliophile's (book lover) haven, its history goes back more than a thousand years, when it was initially built around the 10th Century as a medieval settlement. At this point in its history, it was strategically built on the crest of a hill to offer protection from invaders, while its inhabitants could peer out over the lush vineyards and rolling hills of the Aude Valley. It eventually became a hub for textile production, and you can take a leisurely walk to the old mill, where you can also explore the nearby Château de Montolieu with its incredible views of the surrounding countryside. A few centuries later, the village became known for its masterful artisans (scribes, bookbinders, and printers), and over the centuries, it gained a reputation as a hub for any book-related trades. Pure magic happened with the subtle aromas of parchment, ink, and aged paper wafting through the narrow alleyways. The major icon is the Musée des Arts et Métiers du Livre, which is entirely dedicated to the history of the crafts of typography, printing, and bookbinding. Wandering through its musty interior is a step back in time with old printing presses, fonts, and historical documents on display. It's here that you can get creative in workshops on the art of calligraphy and bookbinding.
But Montolieu isn’t just about books. It’s also a hub for artists and craftspeople. Galleries showcase works ranging from contemporary paintings to traditional pottery, giving visitors a chance to see local talent at work. And, if the creative juices are really flowing, many stores offer workshops in everything from watercolor painting to calligraphy — perfect for those who like to dabble with their inner artist.
Montolieu is a village that celebrates the written word in every way possible. You can browse the quirky shops and appreciate the artistry and craftsmanship of the masters involved in handmade paper and bespoke bindings. You can pretend you're a local for a day and simply sit in a café devouring a buttery and flaky croissant with an espresso, or maybe a crunchy baguette with regional cheeses and a drop of wine from the vineyard down the hill, when golden hues smother adjacent vineyards in a timeless atmosphere and you slowly turn the pages of a book you have just purchased.
It's a place to slow down, take deep breaths, and appreciate its chilled-out, bohemian vibe as you stroll along narrow and winding streets strewn with potted flowers and plants, and quaint doors of centuries-old stone buildings that lead you into a world of rich history and charm.
Gail Palethorpe, a self proclaimed Australian gypsy, is a freelance writer, photographer and eternal traveller. Check out her website Gail Palethorpe Photography and her Shutterstock profile.
