Have you ever wanted to play with monkeys? To be astonished at their family bonds, the big-boy fights over females, their nitpicking grooming habits with each other, and their odd and funny facial expressions that are just so human, while the youngsters chase and wrestle with each other in a wild pseudo Garden of Eden.
Tiwai Island in Sierra Leone is home to one of the most fascinating mammals in the animal kingdom: a sanctuary for apes of different colors, sizes, and species. Located on the Moa River in West Africa, Tiwai Island is a protected area spanning approximately 12 square kilometers and is renowned for its rich biodiversity. Sierra Leone’s first UNESCO World Heritage Site for its exceptional wildlife, it’s home to 11 distinct species of primates, such as the critically endangered Niger Delta red colobus, Diana monkeys, and the white-naped mangabey, as well as chimpanzees, making it one of the most important sanctuaries for primates in West Africa. The island hosts over 1,000 plant species and of its 55 mammal species, 19 are globally threatened.
Cloaked in dense, untouched forests and abundant natural resources, the island is an ideal habitat for these animals, allowing them to thrive on a land that has one of the highest concentrations of primates in the world. The island’s designation as ‘Land of the Apes’ stems from both the abundance and diversity of primates inhabiting it and the efforts to protect and conserve them from threats such as deforestation, poaching, and the illegal wildlife trade. The island's rainforests are also home to over 300 bird species (hornbills and kingfishers), including the rare and endangered white-necked picathartes, while various reptiles, insects, and amphibians scurry across the shady forest floor, creating diverse ecosystems. If you are super lucky, you may even encounter rare pygmy hippos, African forest elephants, or even a pangolin.
The Tiwai Island Wildlife Sanctuary, established in 1987, plays a crucial role in research and conservation efforts, serving as a vital site for scientists studying primate behavior and ecology, and as a symbol of Sierra Leone's commitment to preserving its natural heritage. The local communities surrounding Tiwai Island are involved in the conservation initiatives to help sustain primate populations and promote eco-tourism. Visitors can learn about the local culture and traditions, further emphasizing the island’s significance as a sanctuary for apes and as a source of sustainable income for locals. Participating in cultural tours allows tourists to experience local music, dance, and crafts, fostering a deeper connection to the region.
For accommodation, Tiwai offers basic eco-lodges that blend into the natural environment, providing an authentic and immersive experience. This obviously is not a trip that would tempt the traveling soul that requires and lusts after 5-star accommodation, or who can’t survive without staying connected to the world. There will be no Insta moments of you reclining in a white porcelain tub of soothing bubbles, perched on an elegant verandah with a cocktail in hand as the sun sets. Typically, there is no WiFi, shared bathroom facilities, and limited solar power.
It’s an adventure just to get to this island paradise. From Freetown, it’s a 240km journey along a tarmac highway before hitting the bumpy and dusty roads of the Moa River banks. Then, with your heart in your mouth, a precarious journey in a dug-out canoe will take you to the Land of the Apes, where your head at night will probably be lying on a pillow in an off-grid tented camp such as Tiwai Eco-Lodge (you actually have a comfy stay here in mesh-sided wooden huts), or you can stay at the Research Camp in a dormitory-style bed. No private butler service or someone to tuck you into bed at night.
Tiwai Island is a captivating destination for nature lovers and those who like to get their hiking boots dirty. Guided walks will have you splashing in the sparkling waters of mind-blowing waterfalls with butterflies and dragonflies flitting around, having a picnic beside a serene river, or boating along the waterways with a bird’s eye view of the passing wildlife parade on shore. On land, you will be clambering over massive twisted tree roots as you walk beneath vivid green, thickly knitted canopies filtering the sunlight, with your nose twitching as you get hit in the face with the wafts of earthy aromas. Rustling leaves will mean scurrying critters, and the weird and wonderful steamy air of animal noises will have your senses on high alert. At night, the guided walks take on a different sensory dimension, when the true wild side comes out in the darkness.
The best time to visit this unique home of primates is during the dry season, from November to April.
NB: Guides are compulsory for forest exploration, and travel insurance should be taken out, as there are crocodiles in the river!
Gail Palethorpe, a self proclaimed Australian gypsy, is a freelance writer, photographer and eternal traveller. Check out her website Gail Palethorpe Photography and her Shutterstock profile.
