Oh, the food! From street tacos topped with salsa and cilantro to gourmet dishes in elegant restaurants, every bite is an adventure.
Mexico City is a vibrant culinary tapestry that captures the essence of Mexican culture through its diverse and flavorful cuisine, blending Spanish influences with indigenous traditions—throw into the mix the dynamic young chefs with their contemporary flair and the diverse population that has brought international fare to Mexico.
The heart of the city’s cuisine can be found in its many street food carts that line the curbs of the roads. Walking the city is a challenge for foodies, with so many options along the way. The aromas tantalize, the vision is droolworthy, and the clatter of cooking utensils sounds like a dinner bell. Michelin-star restaurants hide behind secret doorways or upstairs from the walkway, in gardens or in revamped, splendid colonial buildings.
Below are a few of the restaurants that I frequented on a recent visit to Mexico City that are definitely worth putting on your ‘eat radar’:
Café de Taguba—Centro Histórico
One of the oldest restaurants in the city, walking through its doors is like taking a step back in time to dine where Mexican presidents, the famous artist Diego Rivera, and the usual contingent of local rockstars have indulged. Since it opened its doors in 1912, the tables have been packed with locals and tourists while Mariachis walk through the dining room serenading guests. The building was a former convent and is an ode to Mexican artistry with colonial artwork hanging on every wall. Brass chandeliers dangle from the ceiling, beneath which waiters, dressed in somewhat quirky, quaint outfits, flit around the room, serving the clientele. Dishes are based on corn, the indigenous ingredient used in atole, enchiladas, and tamales, with most recipes dating back decades. This is not a place to have a quick bite, as the menu’s disclaimer of expecting to wait 20 to 30 minutes for your food says it all—but it’s worth the wait.
El Cardenal—Centro Historico
(Bookings necessary)
Another restaurant that has stood the test of time, El Cardenal was founded in 1969 and, to this day, is a family-owned establishment known for its authentic Mexican flavors and traditional cooking methods that celebrate Mexico’s culinary heritage. They make their own corn tortillas and have an in-house bakery for their iconic bread service, which literally leaves you wanting to eat bread the whole time you are at your table. A waiter walks around serving you artisanal bread from the moment you take your seat—roles de anis (anise-flavored), cuernitos (Mexican croissants), conchas (sweet bread rolls), roles de canela (cinnamon rolls), semitas (sesame-topped bread), orejas (palmier-style pastries), and cuadritos de higo (fig-topped pastries). Go for their legendary and iconic breakfast service, when you can order their signature hot chocolate (made from raw milk and fresh cream) that’s frothed at the table in front of your very eyes. I can’t rave enough about this restaurant, and it isn’t just because I love bread: every dish showcases their dedication to only using the finest ingredients with time-honored recipes. Ensure that you leave ample belly room for ‘Crepas con Cajeta’ (2 crepes dressed in cajeta (goat’s milk caramel sauce) and finished off with a flourish of chopped pecans.
Rosetta—Roma Norte
(Book months in advance)
Go for the wonderful atmosphere and culinary treat, but if you are on a budget, cross this one off the list. The dishes are masterpieces of culinary art and taste amazing, but portions are on the small side. This hidden gem sits in the Cuauhtémoc neighbourhood in an apartment mansion with soaring ceilings and crown mouldings, creating an interior that is both warm and appealing for those into architectural marvels. The rear of the restaurant is sun-dappled with an indoor, lush green garden vibe. It’s a serene space where informal dining, but oh-so-chic, meets colourful art on a plate. The menu is small but totally focused on perfection. The cuisine is hard to put in one basket, as it morphs from traditional Mexican fare with a contemporary twist to global techniques and flavors of New American cuisine, with a definitive touch of Italian. It’s all about innovation and seasonal produce. Don’t leave without trying the Honey jelly for dessert—precise cubes of honey jelly with a quenelle of brown butter ice cream and vanilla sauce. To-die-for is the only phrase applicable.
Contramar—Roma Norte
(Book at least two months in advance for the best seats at lunch)
A world of seafood awaits at trendy Contramar, where businessmen indulge in long lunches, the artsy upper-crust swan around, and a smattering of in-the-know tourists chow down in a vibrant and dynamic space. Lunch, especially on Fridays, becomes a boozy affair while numerous aromatic and amazing dishes are demolished in between smoke breaks on the sidewalk and dodging the waiting crowd at the door. Opened since 1998, Contramar has not lost any of its gloss over the years and remains one of the trendiest seafood venues in the city to be seen at. An iconic blue mural sits behind the busy bar of the buzzing dining area, where black tied waiters sprint around white-clothed tables. There’s an unmistakable hype about this place—if you are one of the lucky diners sitting at a table, you will be gawked at through the floor-to-ceiling windows by the people passing by. It reminds me of a comical vision of hungry hordes pushing their noses up against the window to glean a mere whiff of the decadent indulgence beyond their reach. Think mouthwatering fare such as tuna tostadas with chipotle mayonnaise and fried leeks, raw scallops tossed in a salsa macha, spicy ceviches, and whole grilled fish dished up with warm tortillas and refried black beans waiting to be devoured. When it’s time to indulge in sweets, a waiter will bring around the ultimate dessert tray of the day’s specialties.
Fugaz—Roma Norte
(Book if you don’t want to miss out on a seat)
We only booked about half an hour before arriving, but since it's a pocket-sized restaurant, I would definitely book earlier if you want to eat at a particular time, as there are only 6 tables inside and an indoor-outdoor street-perching area for another 8 souls. A low-key restaurant that has earned a Michelin Guide nod, Fugaz was one of my favorite places. Only open from Thursdays to Sundays, it’s known for fresh, small tapas-inspired plates pairing the ultimate in fresh-market and seafood produce. Cozy and laid-back, with a distinctive apple-green facade, the fare is a blend of Mexican cuisine with Asian and Mediterranean influences. Menu items constantly change but retain the ethos of freshness, simplicity, and exquisite taste. Think freshly caught fish transformed into crudo, tossed with white beans, and delicately placed on a heavenly almond and brown butter puree. Or, wrap your lips around ‘gnudi’ (gnocchi-like Italian dumplings made with ricotta cheese, and little to no flour), dished up in a light broth with tantalizing slices of white onion, and sprinkled with Parmesan cheese. It’s hip and friendly, where you don’t feel out of place if you happen to be dining solo.
Gail Palethorpe, a self proclaimed Australian gypsy, is a freelance writer, photographer and eternal traveller. Check out her website Gail Palethorpe Photography and her Shutterstock profile.
