The semi-arid capital city of Namibia, Windhoek, sits in a bowl created by the Khomas Highland and the Auas and Eros Mountains, with the Orange River in the north and the Atlantic Ocean reached via the towns of Swakopmund and Walvis Bay, coastal towns in the west. It's virtually in the heart of the country and is the tourism hub for visitors to Namibia. Going on an African safari does not really equate to staying in a city, but the contemporary Windhoek as a landing and take-off point is worth more than a day exploring its streets instead of its deserts, as it's not your typical African city.
Dumped in the middle of dramatic landscapes where elephants, lions, rhinos, and zebra roam, the city has a definite German accent morphed with local African heritage. With an intriguing history and big city metropolitan vibes, you will discover a unique and vibrant urban scene of startling contrasts with a European flavor if you can dodge the traffic turmoil. Originally named 'Otjomuise' by the Nama people, which translates to 'place of hot springs' (natural mineral hot springs are approximately 100km from the town), today its name has South African roots believed to come from 'windy corner' in Afrikaans. When meandering around the urban areas, local voices ring out in English, German, and Afrikaans because, at one point or another, the Germans and the Afrikaans have dominated the city. The Germans colonized Windhoek, and the Africans dominated before the South African government took control of the government during World War 1. English became a common language when tourism boomed, and due to it being the international language of business.
Windhoek’s historical core is a glorious mish-mash of German colonial architecture juxtaposed with contemporary Namibian style. The city’s colonial past is on show when taking in the site of the Alte Feste, the fort dating from the 1890s, and the Christ Lutheran Church is a sky-reaching neo-Gothic masterpiece. A little-known fact about the city is that it's home to one of the oldest weather bureaus in the world, which was established in 1863. It's a modern and clean city where office workers relax in the Zoo Park during their lunch hour, and tourists walk through Post St Mall peering at African artifacts. Massive glass high-rises punctuate the landscape, with the odd appearance of a German castle popping out of nowhere and neo-baroque cathedral spires adorn the cityscape.
A fashionable café culture imbues the bustling streets with a Eurocentric vibe. This is the land of carnivores, as beef predominantly reigns supreme when food is mentioned. The favorite way of cooking is over an open fire, a barbecue commonly referred to as a 'braa.'. The meat in Namibia is mouthwatering because the animals roam in the open, and you can taste their grazing freedom. Many restaurants are adding game meat to their offerings, such as springbok, kudu, oryx, and crocodile. A slow-cooked beef stew (aka potjiekos) is another local dish worth wrapping your lips around for its heartwarming flavors. No trip to Windhoek is complete unless you try some of the local street food such as ‘kapana’ (cooked meat strips) and ‘vetkoek,’ that’s a mouthful in a ball of fried dough often smothered in jam and butter. But, the one that is more of a rite of passage is to munch on 'mopane worms' that have been cooked/dried into a crispy bite. Head to a traditional restaurant dishing up Owambo food for Windhoek’s famous dish ‘ombidi’ (spinach) or the porridge ‘oshifama,' and don't forget to try 'omajovas,' giant mushrooms that can be put on top of a pizza. For the sweet tooth, head to one of the German eating establishments for ‘Brötchens,’ a crispy bread roll stuffed with eggs, meat, salad, and cheese. Or, savor the delicious taste of an apple tart, ‘Apfelstrüdel.’ Seafood is best eaten on the coast of Namibia, where the catch is still wriggling from the ocean.
Namibia's capital of craft beer brewing is Windhoek. With its historical ties to Germany and the semi-arid climate, it's little wonder that cold beer is one of the most consumed drinks in the town. The most popular beer is 'Tafel Lager', which is brewed in Swakopmund. But don't despair, as it's sold throughout the country, and if you're feeling thirsty while in Windhoek, you can visit Namibian Breweries Limited for some of the finest beer tastings in the country—or simply pop into one of the many bars in the city to quench your thirst. If the ladies aren't into slugging back a beer, ask for 'Amarula,' a creamy liqueur splashed over ice for a sundowner. A quick throwback in the form of a shot is a 'Springbokkie’—one part peppermint liqueur and one part Amarula.
Windhoek is the type of town that travelers either love or hate for being too ‘Western,’ but don’t decide which side of the fence you are on until you give this incredible city time to bare its quirky side.
Gail Palethorpe, a self proclaimed Australian gypsy, is a freelance writer, photographer and eternal traveller. Check out her website Gail Palethorpe Photography and her Shutterstock profile.
