Set in the heart of Oman, Nizwa is surrounded by ancient walls, where the intrinsic buzz of marketplaces alive with the chatter of locals and vendors echoes through the spicy air. Hugged by the dramatic Hajar Mountains in the north and the vast, endless sand of the Omani Desert in the south, it's the antithesis of the modern vibes and tourist hordes of Muscat. Culturally rich, the city is encircled by ancient sun-baked mudbrick villages, and three of Oman's five UNESCO World Heritage sites can be reached for a day's adventures. You can soar up to one of Oman's highest peaks, Jebel Shams, where it's possible to peer down on the world, spending a night under the stars and then waking up to a dynamic sunrise as it floats up and over the rim of the canyon. The epic scenery of the region is only rivalled by world-class museums, pretty wadis, bustling souqs, and mountainous drives that take your breath away with the natural beauty surrounding you.
Nizwa is home to the legendary Nizwa Fort that has stood for centuries like a massive sentinel of thick mudbrick walls. It took 12 years for the fort to be built during the reign of Imam Sultan bin Saif bin Malik Al Yarubi at the beginning of the 11th Century. You enter the fort up a narrow staircase and can climb the watchtower for an endless view over the city and date palms to the rugged mountains beyond. One can imagine the age-old vibrations thrumming through the fort of hustling traders haggling, bloodthirsty warrior tales being regaled, and sultans living lavishly. This monument to the past was the pulsating heart of Oman's culture and power, and it's like entering a living museum.
Oman's UNESCO-listed fort, Bahla, dominates the old market town of Bahla. Built between the 12th and 18th centuries, it has not been restored to the same level as Nizwa Fort, but its grand scale is impressive nonetheless. Be wary of drop-offs with no barriers, massive towers where vertigo may interrupt your viewing, and any appearance of ghostly apparitions of Omani tribes in bloodthirsty battle is the result of overactive imaginations.
Nizwa is where you can immerse yourself in the local cultural scene. All of your senses come alive when strolling through the iconic Nizwa Souq, that's been the pulse of the city for centuries. Weaving around narrow alleyways where the air is heavy with the scent of freshly baked bread, the complex aroma of saffron, and the earthy smoky notes of frankincense permeate the air, you will stumble upon jumbled displays of local artisan goods from woven textiles to beautifully designed silver jewelry, mountains of spices, and pottery. Every Friday is the Goat Market, where goats of all sizes bleat in a noisy cacophony, competing with the sound of traders loudly bargaining. It's a curious spectacle of goat ears twitching above the bright, inquisitive eyes of these curious creatures. Vibrant and colorful, the sight captures Nizwa's traditional everyday life, where you can bargain for a sample of the super sweet halva from a store owner.
Find your own slice of nirvana when visiting 'The Green Mountain', aka Jebel Akhdar. It's a lush oasis of paradise on an elevated plateau that defies the expected desert landscape. Surrounded by ancient villages and terraced farms, it's a cool respite from the heat. Falcons soar overhead, and peach orchards dot the terraced fields carved into the mountainside. Fragrant rose gardens dot the landscape, giving the cooling breezes a refreshing scent. Hiking through winding trails, you may be lucky to glimpse locals harvesting plump pomegranates.
The Al Hoota Cave is an incredible and surreal underground wonderland of stalagmites and stalactites that tell the tale of the geology that has shaped Oman's landscape over eons. And a trip to the Al Batinah coast when you are over exploring mudbrick architectural wonders is only a short trip away. Quaint fishing villages and empty beaches adorn the Arabian Sea, where sipping fresh coconut water is the only way to quench your thirst.
In Nizwa, it's hard to walk past the aroma of slow-cooked lamb marinated with spices, wrapped in banana leaves, and cooked underground for hours until it's melt-in-your-mouth tender. Or take a bite of some fresh dates drizzled with honey, paired with a cup of fragrant Omani coffee, served with a side of people watching. Dining in Nizwa isn't just about the food; it's about savoring the warm hospitality that Oman is famous for.
At the end of the day, it's easy to find a cozy spot to watch the sunset over the mountains, painting the sky in hues of orange and pink. Nizwa isn't just an ancient site; it's a living tapestry of stories and traditions waiting to be explored.
Gail Palethorpe, a self proclaimed Australian gypsy, is a freelance writer, photographer and eternal traveller. Check out her website Gail Palethorpe Photography and her Shutterstock profile.
