Phnom Penh, Angkor Wat and Sihanoukville are the go-to places when travellers touch down in Cambodia. However, taking a detour to Battambang, the nation's second city, is well worth a visit.
Location
Battambang, located in Cambodia's northwest, along the Sangkae River, is known as Cambodia's "rice bowl" and famous for its well-preserved French colonial architecture, vibrant arts and cultural scene.
Gastronomic City
While it doesn't have the beaches, the big-city draw, or the likes of a world-renowned ruin, Battambang does have unique attractions that make it worth lingering in. The city has a laid-back air with a quirky creativity that abounds in its hotels, restaurants, cafes, sights and bars.
Food lovers will be wowed by its eclectic nature. Food stalls are available, but if you are looking to dine in, then recommendations for French, Western and Khmer fare can be had from the likes of Jaan Bai, Pomme d'Amor, Nary Kitchen and Smokin' Pot Restaurant. If you're after lighter bites then the city's bakeshops offer a wealth of Western and Khmer choices.
The main market in Psar Nath offers a glimpse into Khmer daily life, with everything from fresh fruits and vegetables to aromatic spices. For Khmer comfort food, the must-try dish is kuy teav, a popular morning noodle soup.
There are also a host of workplaces and restaurants that offer cooking classes for those dedicated to learning more about the local produce and Cambodian dishes.
Bamboo-zled on the Tracks
One thing to do while in Battambang is to ride the rails, or the Bamboo Express. You can take a classic norry, an improvised rail vehicle made of bamboo, on rails that can stretch to 50 km/h. If you are not concentrating too hard on maintaining momentum, then take in the views of the local countryside, with rice fields and local people working. It runs on a short section of track; the ride is around 30 minutes and costs $5 return. While destinations, O Dambong and O Sra Lav, are of limited interest, riding the bamboo train is certainly worth it.
Bats Away And Wat Banan
Don't miss the Bat Cave at Phnom Sampou. Catch sight of millions of bats leaving the cave at sunset and be amazed at the views. On the same trip, you may want to ascend Wat Banan, a temple of Battambang, on top of a hill. While the climb may be arduous up 358 steps, you can get a great panoramic view of the surroundings.
Royal Water Festival
From November 4-6, Battambang is a major focal point for the annual Royal Water Festival, with the hosting of thrilling longboat races on the Sangkae River. Over 120,000 people attended the festival, which highlights the province's traditional Cambodian heritage. The Royal Water Festival, or Bon Om Touk, is celebrated nationwide to mark the end of the rainy season and the reversal of the Tonlé Sap River's flow.
The Department of Tourism said visitors enjoyed a range of activities, including visits to pagodas hosting Ambok (flattened rice) ceremonies, sightseeing at the city centre, and especially along Road No. 2, where the "Clean City Arts Festival 2025" was organised.
S’Árt Urban Arts Festival
S’Árt Urban Arts Festival is a six-day art festival featuring international muralists, performances, workshops, exhibitions and Cambodia's first permanent outdoor mural gallery.
The festival, held every two years, attracted more than 35,000 people when it was hosted from November 3-8, 2025 and introduced the public to diverse urban art forms, including hip-hop, mural and graffiti painting.
A total of 24 muralists from 18 countries helped to launch Cambodia's first permanent outdoor mural gallery, among other artistic activities. Held under the theme 'Colourful Cultures', the fourth edition of Phare Ponleu Selpak's festival also featured 16 pop-up exhibitions at venues, multiple workshops, evening performances, food and art stalls, an art parade and concerts.
A series of Float Creation Workshops saw local students take part in a week-long process of constructing illuminated floats that paraded down the river on the final day. A series of giant puppets, crafted by guest artists from France's Les Grandes Personnes, also paraded the streets alongside local Khmer puppets, Ting Mong.
Cambodia's first mural art competition featured international artists from countries including the USA, Spain, Singapore, Timor-Leste, France, and Germany, as well as Cambodian artists. Elsewhere, the Immersive Tour (Culture & Arts), another first in Cambodia, gave guests the chance to explore Battambang's political and cultural history. The two-hour tour featured Phare's theatre, dance and music students.
Bike Tour and Killing Cave
Battambang also offers the opportunity to take a bike ride through the local countryside, where you can visit local villages and see Cambodian life in real time.
For those who remember the Killing Fields and Pol Pot's demonic regime in the 1970s, there is a 'Killing Cave' where the Khmer Rouge carried out mass atrocities. The cave, close to Battambang, is a shrine to the nation's troubled past and a chance to reflect.
A City Not To Be Missed
Battambang may not be on well-trod main tourist routes, but it is worth checking and to add to your wonderful Cambodian experience.
Andy Probert is a freelance journalist whose work about global travel news, aviation, business and human-interest features has appeared internationally in print and digital formats.
