For those intrepid souls wishing to see far more than just the Angkor Wat temples, there are the lesser celebrated, less crowded, and totally fascinating Roluos Temples located approximately 13 kilometers east of Siem Reap to explore at your own pace and in your own space.
The Roluos Temple complex is a significant archaeological and historical site that offers a glimpse into the glorious Angkor period. Considered the first major capital of the Khmer Empire, it served as a cultural and religious hub, established in the late 9th century and reaching its zenith during the reign of King Yasovarman I, marking the beginning of classical Khmer architecture. The site comprises three main temples: Bakong, Preah Ko, and Lolei, each reflecting different stages of architectural evolution and religious significance. The fourth temple of Prasat Prei Monti is in poor condition, appearing as little more than a few brick towers in a rural setting largely forgotten.
These eerie remnants from the period between 879 AD and 893 AD are in earthly tatters and being strangled by the natural world’s wish to reclaim them, compared to the main Angkor sites, yet they are totally fascinating and stir wonder and the imagination of all who look upon them. Massive tree roots, gnarled and twisted, claw the dusty ground, and walls wear a moldy cloak of mossy green. Carved and cracked bricks are strewn around as if a giant has thrown a temper tantrum. Spectral animal guardian figures, many eroded over time, adorn the temples, while struggling plants of all sorts entwine like lovers or push through brick crevices, morphing the scene into nature’s never-ending need to reclaim its landscape. From majestic elephants on roofs to lion statues, showing remarkable craftsmanship despite their decay. The architecture exemplifies the transition from early brick-and-sandstone structures to more sophisticated stone constructions, and the design principles influenced subsequent Khmer temples built a few hundred years later, including the famed Angkor Wat. You may catch a glimpse of a young monk in a fleeting orange robe from a Theravada Buddhist monastery at either Bakong or Lolei as he flits around the ruins, totally in his own world, since the site holds significant spiritual meaning for Cambodians and serves as a symbol of national heritage and identity.
Bakong is the largest and most impressive temple.
The most impressive of the three temples, Bakong (built 881 AD), has a central pyramid that rises several stories high, symbolizing Mount Meru, the sacred mountain in Hindu mythology, which is why it’s known as ‘temple mountain’. The temple’s design includes a series of concentric terraces and galleries and is surrounded by a moat, which served both as a defensive measure and a symbolic boundary between the sacred space and the outside world. Intricate carvings and bas-reliefs depict Hindu gods, mythological scenes, and royal iconography, representing the spiritual and political power of the Khmer kings. Mammoth elephant and lion stone statues stand like sentinels at the corners of the five tiers, creating an incredible sight.
Preah Ko
Crumbling and covered in weathered stucco, Preah Ko is smaller than Bakong. It has many broken structures, with some carvings still visible, like a ghostly calling card from the past. This temple is significant despite its size, as it marks the beginning of the Roluos group of temples. Its name means ‘Sacred Bull’, referring to the Nandi bull, Shiva’s mount, often depicted in the temple’s carvings. Preah Ko is a brick-and-laterite structure with a series of small sandstone towers dedicated to Shiva, one of the primary deities in Hinduism. It served as a religious center and a royal mortuary site, emphasizing the divine right of kings and their connection to Hindu gods.
Lolei
Once proudly situated on an island that is now the dried-up Lolei Lake, the temple Lolei is heavily ruined and mostly collapsed. It served as a monastic center and features five sandstone towers arranged in a quincunx pattern—similar to the 5-spot on a dice, with five points, four of which form a square or rectangle, the fifth in the center. The temple's layout reflects the sacred mountain concept, with each tower representing a different level of cosmic significance. Lolei is renowned for its well-preserved carvings depicting scenes from Hindu mythology and daily life, offering valuable insights into the period's culture. Though heavily ruined, Lolei is undergoing restoration.
The Roluos temple complex can be reached from Siem Reap by tuk tuk or, for the adventurous souls, by bicycle. Serene and tranquil, these ancient ruins are worth taking the time to meander around.
Gail Palethorpe, a self proclaimed Australian gypsy, is a freelance writer, photographer and eternal traveller. Check out her website Gail Palethorpe Photography and her Shutterstock profile.
