Often an add-on when touring Georgia, the ancient land of Armenia is a destination within itself. Its laid-back capital, Yerevan, is a riotous mix of quirky cafes, incredible historical buildings, and traffic-congested streets accompanied by the horn-blasting mayhem of aggressive drivers with little regard for any road rules. Harmless stray dogs meander or squat on city corners where pubs, bars, and music venues overflow with patrons, especially at the weekends. Playing chess has been a way of life for Armenians since the 9th Century and today forms part of the school curriculum. The country is considered a chess superpower with the most grandmasters per capita in the world. The streets of Yerevan ooze their rich cultural heritage and traditions that seamlessly blend with the locals' inclusive and contemporary outlook on life.
Unpretentious, verging on provincial, Yerevan’s history dates back to the 8th Century BC when the Erebuni Fortress was founded in 782 BC. One of the oldest cities in the world, along with Greece, China, Japan, and Egypt, its tree-lined streets are wide and have plenty of green spaces for locals to play in. Impressive Soviet-era architecture dots the city, home to the Matenadaran Library, where a treasure trove of ancient Armenian and Greek manuscripts can be found. The heart of Yerevan is the Republic Square, surrounded by the massive columns of government buildings, dancing water fountains that are lit up at night, and the elegant History Museum, which opened in 1921, displaying bizarre artifacts such as a circa 3500 BC leather shoe and other objects taking you through the years from prehistoric to the present times.
A city of 1.1 million people makes Yerevan the most populated city in Armenia, with a total population of 2.778 million. The backdrop and symbol of the town is the dominant Ararat Mountain—it's actually two extinct volcanoes. If myth is to be believed, this is the location of Noah's Ark. Erebuni Fortress, an iconic landmark, is considered the metropolis's birthplace. The oldest surviving church, Katoghike Tsiranavor, is a lasting statement of the country's Christian faith. Yerevan is also where you will find the biggest Armenian cathedral worldwide, the Saint Gregory Cathedral. The Tsitsernakaberd memorial is a sad reminder of the years (1915-1916) when the Ottoman Empire during World War I attempted to destroy the Armenian people and their identity.
For a taste of Armenian cuisine and culture, visit the 'GUM' market. You will be spellbound by the array of colorful produce, from spices to sweets, dried fruits, and dairy products. The displays will leave you gobsmacked, from massive towers of pickled cabbage to stack upon stack of lavash, the traditional flatbread.
Like all over Armenia, its people are super hospitable, and you should never pass up a chance to grace a family home for a meal. Their cuisine will have your mouth watering in anticipation of that first mouthful. The local take on a kebab, 'khorovats' are found everywhere from street corners to restaurants. Soaked in marinade or smothered in seasoning, the meat—beef, pork, or lamb—is cooked over charcoal grills. Dished up with an accompanying salad of eggplant, onion and tomatoes, then wrapped in a lavash, it's an Armenian staple. Commonly known as 'dolma,' but pronounced 'tolma' in Armenia, this is the typical dish of onion, spices, minced meat, and rice stuffed into a vine leaf. Each Armenian granny has her own way of making this delectable treat, including anything from red peppers to coriander, lentils, and sometimes tomatoes or courgettes—mystery bundles for the hordes to enjoy. At Easter time, the vine leaves are swapped for cabbage leaves. Baked dumplings appear in a dish named ‘manti,' originally from the western area of Armenia. The dumplings proudly sit in a sauce of tomatoes, sometimes spicey, with a yogurt bursting with the flavor of garlic on the side. Many dishes (kyufta, tabbouleh, etc.) may appear similar to other Middle Eastern countries, but Armenia imbues dishes with a distinct twist.
Yerevan is a fantastic starting point for exploring the land of Armenia, which is predominantly untouched by tourists. Over four thousand monasteries (some crumbling back into the earth) dot rural towns, mountain villages, and escarpments, overlooking mirror-like lakes with views that will take your breath away. Cemeteries overflow with fields of 'khachkars,' beautifully carved burial stones, some dating back to the 13th Century.
Landlocked and perched at the crossroads of the Middle East, Europe, and Asia, Armenia is a small country that will intrigue and fascinate.
Gail Palethorpe, a self proclaimed Australian gypsy, is a freelance writer, photographer and eternal traveller. Check out her website Gail Palethorpe Photography and her Shutterstock profile.