Oaxaca, just a short flight from Mexico City, offers a vibrant, unique scene for the wandering soul to explore. It highlights the region’s diverse indigenous cultures, is a showcase destination for food lovers, and outside of the city, it’s an explorer’s paradise of stunning landscapes where scenic valleys take your breath away. The majestic Sierra Madre Mountains tower, and lush forest and jungle hikes will challenge the most experienced trekker. For nature enthusiasts, the Hierve el Agua natural mineral springs, with their stunning rock formations resembling waterfalls, provide a perfect spot to chill out and maybe take a few Insta shots.
My pick, inside the city or close by, that you can’t miss out on, are below:
Monte Alban
Totally impressive, Monte Alban is only a 20-minute shuttle ride from the heart of Oaxaca. An archaeological site of what was a Zapotec city is a landscape of myth and beauty, with its incredible ruins and panoramic views. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the ancient city was the political, economic, and spiritual hub of the Zapotec civilization for more than a thousand years (500 BCE to 700 CE). Sitting on top of a hill in Oaxaca Valley, the shuttle is half the fun of getting up the hill to see it—sharp corners with precarious drop-offs and rows of ramshackle or half-built houses clinging to the cliff face as the bus maneuvers yet another tight corner. While quirky three-wheeler mototaxis become chugging flashes of brilliant red as they attempt the steep incline and are left in the dust by the numerous tourist shuttle buses racing to the top.
The ruins are a mammoth 3 square kilometers, where, in wonderment, you can gaze at a grand central plaza, tombs, terraces, pyramids, and even ball courts. Intricately carved stones showing the Zapotec script (one of the earliest writing scripts in the Americas) are on show at the museum onsite, together with other antiquities such as clay figures of their gods, some with crazy and elaborate headdresses, tattoos, and wearing what I can only describe as ‘mean’ looking faces with filed teeth—the things that nightmares are made of.
The significance of the site goes well beyond the archaeological value; Monte Alban is a window into the past lives of the people who lived here, embodying the rich cultural tapestry of Oaxaca and its ancient roots, which continues to inspire and fascinate people today.
The Museo de las Culturas de Oaxaca
Housed in what was once the Monastery of Santo Domingo de Guzmán Monastery (or Convent), a historic 16th-century Spanish Baroque wonder, this is one museum that you can linger in for hours. From tall windows, you can peer down onto an ethnobotanical garden (a living garden of native plants that showcase cultural, historical, and practical importance, think medicinal, ceremonial, and food), or raise your eyes to the adjoining masterpiece of architecture, the Templo de Santo Domingo. The museum takes you on a journey through Oaxaca’s rich tapestry of life, from ancient to the colonial era, ending in contemporary times, through its art, traditions, and culture.
The museum’s primary focus is on the indigenous cultures that have thrived in Oaxaca for thousands of years, including the Zapotec, Mixtec, and other lesser-known groups. Exhibits feature archaeological artifacts, including pottery, sculptures, and tools, that reveal the advanced craftsmanship and spiritual beliefs of these ancient civilizations. You can gawk at a stunning collection of jade masks and jewelry, which underscores the importance of this precious stone in indigenous rituals and social hierarchy. The museum also provides detailed explanations of the pre-Hispanic period, illustrating the development of complex societies before the Spanish conquest.
It’s not just a musty museum of relics, but an immersive experience into the world of Oaxaca, where contemporary and temporary art displays are held on a rotational basis that are sometimes on the mind-bending side, such as the one that was showing when I was there by Pedro Linares López, the creator of figurines named alebrijes. His vision of mythical creatures with bizarre horns, wings, and super-quirky bodies, often topped with human-like heads, defies belief. Some wear humorous looks, while others are totally sinister; his fantastical artworks blend indigenous traditions with modern Mexican artistry, carrying symbolic meanings.
The Templo de Santo Domingo in Oaxaca
Once you have done the rounds of the museum, head virtually next door to the Templo de Santo Domingo, which is an outstanding example of a baroque-style church. It has stood as the spiritual and historical landmark of Oaxaca since the 16th Century when it was built by the Augustinian friars.
Taking several decades to be completed, it’s the epitome of the artisans' work during that time. Gorgeous stone carvings, bell towers that call to the heavens, and a façade of elegant Baroque flourishes, including floral motifs, cherubs, and religious symbols, create a grandeur hailing from the colonial period. Inside, it’s a rich world of gilded altars, religious art, and stuccoes blanketing walls and ceilings. The Chapel of the Rosary is iconic for its gold leaf decorations and elegant woodwork. The altar features a beautiful statue of the Virgin of the Rosary, a focal point during religious ceremonies and festivals. The interior’s ambiance is both majestic and serene, offering a space for reflection, worship, and admiration of colonial artistry.
The monastery complex surrounding the church is equally impressive, featuring cloisters, courtyards, and former living quarters that now serve as museums and cultural centers. These spaces offer insights into the monastic life and the site's historical significance. The Templo de Santo Domingo also played a crucial role in the social and cultural development of Oaxaca, serving as a center for religious education, community gatherings, and important ceremonies for centuries.
It is totally acceptable to wander into one of the many eateries around these iconic treasures of the city to grab a taco or indulge in a quick shot of tequila while playing the travelling historian.
Gail Palethorpe, a self proclaimed Australian gypsy, is a freelance writer, photographer and eternal traveller. Check out her website Gail Palethorpe Photography and her Shutterstock profile.
