Toberua Island’s story is deeply etched in my soul—35 years is a long time since my last visit to this island paradise. From the moment my youngest daughter and I arrived, the memories flooded back of that first visit when our family dynamics were a very different affair—me, my husband, and four children in tow (my youngest daughter then aged 2, while the others were 12, 14, and 15). This trip was a personal step back in time, and the island vibes were exactly as I remembered. My daughter’s memories were on a more surreal level, gleaned from old family albums and regaled hilarious stories of her following around behind the housemaid named Lucy as she went about her chores, and the beautiful staff member who wove a sun hat for her out of a palm frond—she even tried to sleep in it at night.
Apparently, many visitors to this haven return year in and year out, with or without children, for anniversaries or other celebrations. It has gained cult status for its personal and intimate guest approach that never wavers, for its stunning location, and the perfect place where you can kick back with a coconut in hand, listen to traditional Fijian songs, and feel the gentle pulse of Fijian history beneath your feet. Being on Toberua Island is to wrap yourself in the warm embrace of Fiji’s legendary hospitality.
Nestled in the shimmering waters of Fiji, Toberua Island is a tiny slice of heaven with a magical story to tell. This lush, palm-fringed haven is more than just a postcard-perfect escape—it’s a place where history and nature blend seamlessly. Though small by island standards (you can easily walk around it at low tide), Toberua’s roots run deep, and wandering around its sandy shores feels like stepping into a living storybook. The island’s name, Toberua, is believed to come from a local Fijian romantic legend about a runaway daughter from another island and a chief’s son who found her living on Toberua. She was wearing pigtails (in Fijian, pigtail is ‘tobe’ and two is ‘rua’), hence the island became named ‘Toberua’. The culture and history are a trove of stories passed down by generations of islanders. These tales tell of brave navigators and ancient chiefs who used the island as a resting place during their voyages across the Pacific. Long before it became a sustainable eco resort, Toberua was a vibrant community center, where villagers cultivated coconuts and practiced traditional crafts, all while sharing stories around crackling fires under starry skies.
The island’s history is intertwined with the broader story of Fiji itself — a melting pot of indigenous Fijian culture, European explorers, and later, colonial influences that left their mark on the islands. In the 19th century, Europeans arrived, and Toberua saw a wave of change, though it always retained its authentic Fijian soul.
The island’s small but passionate community works tirelessly to preserve its history, blending it with modern comforts so visitors can enjoy a seamless experience of relaxation and discovery. Toberua’s heart remains rooted in its rich past. Snorkeling over vibrant coral reefs, you might spot a centuries-old anchor or a piece of shipwreck, whispering tales of bygone eras. Visitors can explore a local village and indulge in a traditional kava ceremony and Meke dance (storytelling art form using movement, song, and chanting to recount legends, spirits and daily life), while the echoes of traditional Fijian life linger in the air.
There is an accredited PADI dive centre for the advanced and beginners to take advantage of, if snorkeling is not your thing or you don’t want to splash about in the inviting swimming pool. Excursions to Bird Island, one of only two bird sanctuaries in Fiji, is where red-footed boobies dance, or at Picnic Island, you can skip along the white sands before diving into crystal clear water. For the energetic, there is a mangrove forest kayak adventure, and the golfer gets a rare treat at low tide, playing the Toberua nine-hole golf course, created in 1985 by Australian artist Ken Done. A trip to the colorful city of Suva, with its colonial architecture and bustling markets, is not to be missed. Volleyball in the afternoons, stand-up paddle boards, a Hobie Cat sailboat, or, if you are really keen, bring your own kite to soar on the afternoon trade winds over the warm waters. Board games, table tennis, and a library will keep you occupied while sipping on a cocktail at the bar, or you can merely sit back and contemplate nothing at all at a beachfront table, having a sundowner in the late afternoons. The luscious spa treatments offer a chance to be totally self-indulgent.
Charismatic ‘Jack’, the resident talking parrot, will have a chat with you as you make your way to your bure. He is known to be a bit of a pervert as he has a habit of perching on the open-air bathroom wall to peek at you when you are showering. Deck lounge chairs on wooden verandahs allow for wonderful afternoon naps while the soft, salty air washes over you, and massive doors to your handcrafted ‘hut’ (I say hut loosely as it’s more like your own comfy beachfront home) bring the outside in, giving that wonderful feeling of being at one with the seaside. From fresh, rich coffee grounds for the plunger to have that early morning coffee, to discreet room cleaning and turn-down service each evening, everything you could wish for is looked after by unassuming staff with beautiful smiles. The restaurant dishes up fabulous à la carte meals that change daily, featuring locally harvested produce and seafood still glistening from the ocean, so you will never suffer from hunger pangs.
Toberua Island is where couples can moon away in their own love bubble, families can cavort in a seaside playground, and solo travellers can join in with newfound friends or hibernate in their own blissful space. It’s where you come for the sun and stay to make everlasting memories.
Gail Palethorpe, a self proclaimed Australian gypsy, is a freelance writer, photographer and eternal traveller. Check out her website Gail Palethorpe Photography and her Shutterstock profile.
