Monsters do not usually come to mind when thinking of Europe and its outdoor cafes where sipping espresso is de rigueur, skiing the snowy Alps is a must, or thrashing credit cards in designer boutiques is what floods the imagination. Monsters are quite often associated with Asian country festivals such as the Chinese New Year and their monster named 'Nian' with sharp horns and a long head, the fierce creatures in a Yokai Parade in Kyoto, or the fearsome fanged faces of the Ogoh-Ogoh running amok during a Ngrupuk Parade in pre-Nyepi time of the year in Bali. But monsters do come out in Europe to play with the humans amidst a cacophony of foot stomping and clanging cow bells that ring out through the mountains to scare away any bad luck for the spring season.
A tradition in February each year since 1960, 'Kurentovanje' is a time for mammoth fuzzy behemoths wearing scary red masks with massive bull horns, dangling cow bells on thick belts, and carrying menacing weapons to stalk the streets of Ptuj. It's weird party time in the oldest village in Slovenia with a festival that rivals any Mardi Gras around the world. These big hairy demons haunt Ptuj and can be found in all the towns and villages along the mountainous belt from the Pyrenees to the Alps.
Slovenia is tucked between Austria, Italy, and Croatia. Its alpine scenery takes your breath away, red-roofed towns sit along stunning coastlines, and amazing food and wine are consumed with gusto. A small, lush country that is relatively off most tourists' radars, Slovenia has a rich cultural heritage and incredible landscapes to explore.
Known as a 'green' country, the beautiful capital city of Ljubljana is a green oasis that ranks among the top countries globally for its number of green public areas per capita. Resembling a fairytale village, it straddles the Ljubljaica River with picturesque bridges while an imposing castle dominates a hill overlooking the town's heart. The country is home to the biggest subterranean canyon, once used as a mercury mine, the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Škocjan Caves. The world's most ancient wooden wheel with an axle was found here. The astonishingly green Soča River runs through the valley of the same name where the ferocious mountain battle of World War I, the Isonzo Front, occurred. Perched above this earth that had run red with blood is the Triglav National Park, a protected area where today you can trek along the Path of Peace, taking you from the Alps to the Adriatic Sea, linking over 300 monuments in remembrance of the war.
You can meander around the original stud farm for the proud and regal white Lipizzan horses at Lipica in the Karst region of Slovenia or sample one of the world's finest fleur de sel (salt) at the Piran Salt Pans still harvested in the old traditional manner in the medieval village of Piran that hugs the coast. The city of Bled and Lake Bled, sitting under the majestic peaks of the Alps, is one of the most stunning sights in Europe. At the same time, the Postojna Cave with its fanciful tales of 'dragon babies' and the adjacent Predjama Castle—believed to be the largest cave castle worldwide—are intriguing places to see.
The history of the noisy Kurentovanje Festival is unknown, but it's believed to have evolved from the early Celtic, Slavic, or Illyrian tribal customs as equivalent festivals with big woolly monsters occur in quaint villages throughout the mountainous areas across Europe. Ptuj is the most famous village for its dynamic street parade. It begins with the ear-splitting cracking sound of bullwhips rendered by farmers adorned with flower garlands in their hats.
Supposedly, these decorated farmers are clearing the way for the rowdy monsters to arrive to chase away the winter in a euphoric dance when colorful streamers hanging off the bull horns twirl in disarray. It's a fantastic spectacle that's both frightening and light-hearted fun. The noise is deafening and only increases with the rampant consumption of homemade schnapps, stomping feet, and oddly, donuts stuffed with apricot marmalade. It's a street party that anyone can join wearing a demonic grin.
Gail Palethorpe, a self proclaimed Australian gypsy, is a freelance writer, photographer and eternal traveller. Check out her website Gail Palethorpe Photography and her Shutterstock profile.
