We continue our exciting travels through Panjim, the capital of India's paradise state, Goa.
Panjim is a city that thrives on contrasts, where age-old Goan kitchens sit beside chic international restaurants, offering visitors a rich blend of local flavours, Portuguese heritage, and modern hospitality.
What to eat
The city's cuisine begins with Goan staples such as fish curry rice, prawn balchão, chicken cafreal, and sorpotel. The local catch, often freshly brought in from the Mandovi River or Arabian Sea, forms the base of many meals.
For a traditional experience, Viva Panjim in Fontainhas is a must-visit. Housed in a restored Portuguese home, it serves home-style Goan fare. Another favourite, Mum's Kitchen, near Miramar Beach, preserves authentic Goan recipes that are vanishing from home kitchens.
Panjim's colonial past lives on in its Portuguese-influenced cuisine. Expect dishes like bacalhau (salted codfish), chouriço pao (Goan sausage bread), and bebinca, the famous layered dessert made from coconut milk and jaggery. Ritz Classic and Casa Portuguesa offer beautifully crafted menus where Goan and Portuguese flavours mingle harmoniously.
At the top of a hill in central Altinho, drop into Sunaparanta Goa Centre for the Arts. In its palm-fringed courtyard, Café Bodega is a delightful spot for everything from shakshuka breakfasts to miso chicken lunches.
Restaurants such as Black Sheep Bistro and The Fisherman's Wharf add contemporary twists to traditional ingredients: grilled prawns with kokum butter or pork belly glazed in feni. These creative interpretations attract a cosmopolitan crowd who appreciate innovation without losing the local touch.
Panjim's street food scene also hums with energy. Stalls at Miramar and Campal serve everything from ros omelette (omelette in spicy curry) to cutlet pao and prawn patties. These are best enjoyed with a glass of local soda or kokum sherbet, offer an authentic slice of daily life.
For an Indian meal, seek out a fish thali, a selection of traditional dishes served on a platter. Kokni Kanteen, a relaxed and low-lit restaurant near Panjim’s historic Mahalaxmi Temple, serves an excellent example. Hospedaria Veniteis, one of the oldest establishments, is also another excellent choice.
For coffee lovers, Blue Tokai Coffee Roasters and Café Tato offer two very different experiences: the former a modern café serving artisanal brews, and the latter a long-standing Goan favourite known for its bhaji-pao breakfast and chorizo rolls.
Celebrated Goan chef Avinash Martins has recently opened Janot, his third venture, while Artjuna in Anjuna has expanded into Panjim. This new restaurant features a rooftop garden and offers a Mediterranean-inspired menu, along with fresh salads, mezze platters, smoothies, and artisanal baked goods. Café culture continues to thrive in Fontainhas with coffee shops like Bombay Coffee Roasters, where travellers can unwind over espresso or sandwiches.
Where to stay
Panjim combines heritage charm with modern comfort. From restored colonial mansions to contemporary riverfront resorts, the city caters to every kind of traveller.
Luxury stays: For those seeking indulgence, Panjim's luxury hotels offer elegant settings with service and cuisine to match. The Vivanta Goa, Panaji stands out for its sleek design, rooftop bar, and restaurants serving both Goan and international fare. The Marriott Goa Resort & Spa, located along the Mandovi River, has lush gardens, spa treatments, and sea-view dining.
Heritage and boutique hotels: For a more intimate experience, heritage hotels offer a step back in time. The Panjim Inn and The Verandah, both in Fontainhas, are converted 19th-century homes that blend antique furniture with modern amenities. Mateus Boutique Hotel and Hospedaria Abrigo de Botelho are also popular among travellers, with their proximity to cafés, galleries, and river promenade.
Mid-range and budget options: For travellers seeking comfort without extravagance, Panjim has mid-range and budget hotels offering excellent value. Hotel Fidalgo remains a trusted name, known for its clean rooms, restaurants, and central location on 18th June Road. Budget travellers can find cosy guesthouses and homestays in and around Fontainhas, where hosts often serve homemade Goan breakfast and share tips on local attractions.
Casino River
The Mandovi River is the lifeline of Panjim, and its waterfront promenade is a favourite hangout for locals and visitors alike. If you fancy your chances, try your luck at the floating river casinos, such as Deltin Royale and Big Daddy, which add a touch of glamour to your stay.
Andy Probert is an independent journalist who writes about global travel news, airlines, airports, and business. His work has appeared globally on the BBC, and in many national newspapers and magazines.
