Where the sun kisses your skin, the scent of orange and olive groves tantalize, and masses of wild herbs grow in abandonment on mountain slopes, Crete, the largest of the Greek Islands, will draw you in with its sublime beauty tainted by salty sea air.
Crete is where the myths and legends of ancient Greeks saturate the land that's believed to be the birthplace of Zeus, the god of the sky and thunder who left his mark with the birth of Apollo; Athena, the goddess of war and Helen of Troy believed to be the most beautiful woman on earth. Crete is the jewel in the Mediterranean Sea where sailors were lured by sirens, and Icarus had his wings burnt off as he flew too close to the sun. Over ancient times, Crete has seen the ebb and flow of humanity from the Romans, Minoans, Byzantines, Venetians, Ottoman Turks, and others, leaving in their wake a wealth of fables and archaeological wonders; the Firka Fortress houses the Maritime Museum showcasing model ships and naval paraphernalia, the former monastery of St Francis is home to the Archaeological Museum of Chania, and the oldest Ottoman building in Crete, the Kucik Hassan Mosque, overlooks the emerald sea. From Ottoman baths to Venetian arsenals, the unique architectural influences over centuries of habitation let your imagination take hold.
The picturesque old town of Chania is dominated by the grand Venetian Harbour, built by grand warrior sailors to protect the Venetian sea trade against marauding and pillaging pirates. The commanding stone Venetian lighthouse standing guard at the entrance to the harbor was built in 1570 at the end of a long rock pier. A tourist hub during the day when elderly folk sit and stare out to the ocean, young locals try fishing, and tourists gape in amazement at this scene, which could appear in history books. At night, the scene morphs into a glowing apparition of ghostly specters where lovers stroll and bustling seafood restaurants on the waterfront buzz to the tune of lilting flute sounds and gutsy folk songs. There's the constant clip-clop of horse-drawn carriages laden with tourists gawking at sights against the backdrop of the constant slapping of the ocean against the seawall. Typical Greek island visions are picture perfect; slinking cats hunting for food scraps beneath restaurant tables, craggy fishermen tending blue and white fishing boats bobbing in the harbor floating beside luxurious yachts, and ad hoc makeshift stalls have dangling sea-sponges and glistening shells displayed.
Crete is Europe's oldest wine-growing area. A gourmand's and wine lover's paradise, it offers sunshine in a glass. Sip a deep yellow-colored Vilana with hints of lemon, orange, pear, and herbs, or 'Plyto,' a rare drop making a fresh and lemony comeback. The wine 'Daphne' showcases ripe yellow and white fruits with pungent herbs. The vineyards spread out in abandon around the quaint villages nearby.
The principal ingredients of the Cretan diet have survived each wave of invaders; seafood, figs, quince, olives, and wild-grown herbs like rosemary, thyme, and oregano. Add some cheese—creamy or hard, white to various shades of yellow, goat's or sheep's, mature or fresh—and you have the perfect indulgent meal. Scoff down the mouthwatering dish of ‘Stifado’ (a slow-cooked stew of rabbit, pork, lamb, and beef with red wine, onions, tomatoes and infused with wild herbs and a touch of cinnamon) presented on orzo pasta with crusty Cretan bread. Seafood dishes are everywhere, with a common favorite being 'saganaki', a simmered dish of mixed seafood, spicy peppers, tomatoes, and feta cheese. From snails to grilled octopus, slow-roasted lamb to honey-dipped pastries, your taste buds will tingle whenever you sit in a restaurant. Breakfast should be had at one of the bakeries littering the side streets. Put a smile on your face as you pig out on the delicacy 'spanakopita' (cheese and spinach hiding in perfect flaky phyllo pastry), or let your taste buds do a dance while eating 'kalitsounia’ (small savory or sweet pies).
Be warned, in typical Greek fashion, dinner is served after 9pm, giving you plenty of time to relax over an aperitif while the sun slinks into the horizon. Due to the harbor's popularity, quaint and rustic tavernas are slowly replaced with smooth, polished cafes and bars. Still, many do offer contemporary takes on authentic Cretan food. You will have to meander the rustic alleys and streets laden with bougainvilleas behind the harbor to explore where most tourists don't venture if you want a truly traditional taste of Crete on your plate.
Chania's harbor is for history buffs and foodaholics wishing to taste Greek island life.
Gail Palethorpe, a self proclaimed Australian gypsy, is a freelance writer, photographer and eternal traveller. Check out her website Gail Palethorpe Photography and her Shutterstock profile.
