For many travellers, North Goa offers the perfect balance between sun-drenched beaches and carefree vibes. However, many seeking a change of scenery are venturing south to Margao where they discover a side of the state that beats with culture, tradition, and colonial charm.
Margao, also spelled Madgaon, is a bustling city where Portuguese heritage, Indian warmth, and coastal beauty merge to create an experience both authentic and memorable.
Sights
Margao is the second-largest city in Goa and the administrative headquarters of South Goa. Unlike the beach towns that pulse to the rhythm of parties, Margao moves to a more graceful tempo. Here, narrow streets lined with Indo-Portuguese houses, ancient churches, and lively markets offer a vivid picture of Goa’s history and everyday life.
The city’s name is believed to derive from the Sanskrit word Mathagram, meaning “village of monasteries,” reflecting its pre-Portuguese religious significance. Today, Margao has evolved into a cultural and industrial powerhouse that continues to shape Goa’s identity.
Margao’s architecture reflects its layered past from the Portuguese era to post-independence modernism. At its heart is The Holy Spirit Church, an architectural masterpiece built in 1564. With its pristine white façade, twin bell towers, and serene courtyard, it is one of the oldest and most beautiful churches in the state.
Behind the church lies the Largo de Igreja, a vast, tree-lined square framed by elegant old homes that once belonged to Goa’s elite.
Nearby, The House of Seven Gables, a heritage mansion built in the 1790s, offers a glimpse into Portuguese-era domestic life with its wide verandas, graceful arches, and sloping tiled roofs. The lanes around the church lead to charming bakeries, antique shops, and local cafés where time slows.
Even Margao’s 120-year-old municipal building is considered iconic, with its large arches, high roofs and brightly painted yellow and white.
Market trends
No visit to Margao is complete without losing yourself in its legendary market. This bustling bazaar is one of the largest in Goa and a feast for the senses from the chatter of vendors to the scent of spices, dried fish, and freshly ground coconut. Colourful Goan sausages (chouricos) and handwoven baskets, cashew nuts and local sweets can all be found in the maze of lanes.
Gateway to the South
While Margao stands inland, it serves as the gateway to South Goa’s most enchanting beaches, such as Colva, Benaulim, Varca, and Cavelossim.
Colva Beach, just six kilometres from the centre, has a 25-kilometre coastline, perfect for long walks, sunsets, and seafood dining at beach shacks such as Joecons and Mickey’s.
Benaulim Beach is quieter and ideal for dolphin-spotting boat trips, while further afield Varca and Cavelossim offer tranquil luxury with high-end resorts tucked amid coconut groves.
Margao’s Festivals
The Feast of the Holy Spirit, celebrated in May/June, is one of Goa’s biggest religious events. The church square transforms into a carnival ground with food stalls, music, and dancing, while traditional Goan mando songs echo across the night.
Other events, like the Goa Carnival and Shigmo Festival, see the city streets filled with parades, floats, and folk dances. The city is also a centre for performing arts, primarily The Ravindra Bhavan cultural complex hosting dramas, music performances, and art exhibitions.
Getting There and Around
Margao is well-connected by road and rail. It’s home to Madgaon Railway Station, Goa’s busiest junction, linking the state to Mumbai, Bangalore, and beyond. Dabolim Airport is about 25 kilometres away, and taxis or buses make the journey in under an hour. Once in Margao, you can explore on foot as the city’s manageable size makes it easy to navigate.
While Margao may not be on most people’s radars, the city is a fascinating alternative to those who can crowbar themselves off the beaches and head inland for a dose of cultural and real life.
To discover more about Goa and its beaches, view these articles on North Goa and South Goa.
Andy Probert writes about global travel news, airlines, airports, and business, and has appeared internationally in both print and digital formats.
